![]() It's running points and it looked that the last time it was running it had a new ATU (seems new and the receipts and the date it was last on the road give it about 800/1000 miles with that) which doesn't have too much play. It has the F-mark (which is the advance firing mark) up at idle and then advances way beyond that ! It's terribly over-advanced, if my strobe is telling the truth, and the exhausts glow red. I cleaned out the carbs, sorted out the perished rubber bits, evicted the electrical gremlins, rebuilt those dreadful ATE brakes, changed the alternator brushes, checked the rocker clearances and changed all the fluids and have it running, charging and lighting up. so I cannot quiz the last person to run it. I think it passed through a few hands before it got to me. It had been off the road since 2006, if the roadtax and MOT certs were to be believed. Whist we don't like the qaulity of finish it is a perfectly useable product at a very good price.I bought a 1978 BMWr80/7, ex-plod. This is a professional set but, as can be seen from the photo, the plating on some of the adapters leaves a bit to be desired. This kit contains a dial gauge, extentions for the dial gauge plunger, adapter for the dial gauge and an extention for this adapter and adapters to fit 10mm, 12mm and 14mm plug holes. You can then turn the engine backwards until the dial indicates that you have dropped the correct amount eg Kawasaki S2 fires with the piston at 2.4mm before TDC (BTDC) and you can then re-mark the flywheel or back plate correctly. This means that you screw the applicable adapters into the spark plug hole to hold the dial gauge in the correct place and turn the engine over until the piston is shown by the dial gauge indicates the piston to be at the top of the stroke or TDC. Many set the timing mark as a piston height before TDC (Top Dead Centre). It is worth every penny of it's price.ĭial Guage Ignition Timing Set Many bikes, especially classic two strokes like Kawasaki H1, H2, S1, S2, S3, KHs etc had inaccurate ignition marks from the factory, some so bad that if you timed the bike from them you would be holing pistons! Many factory workshop manuals admit this. It come is a well made carrying case with loads of adapters. ![]() VacuumMate is a very well built, waterproof tool designed for a long life. VacuumMate has an internal battery and can run on either that or you can feed the tool from the bike battery with the supplied lead and clips, which also charges the internal battery. This tool's so much more than posh vacuum gauge set. We have found this feature invaluable when working with classic bikes. This is displayed in an LED 'bar chart' across all four cylinders and will indentify leaks on the induction side and leaking valves on either inlet or exhaust. In Dynamic mode you measure the peaks and troughs of the whole cycle, instead of just the average vacuum level. The biggest bonus however is the ability to measure dynamic intake vacuum. When balancing carbs/throttle bodies it's fairly important to have the tickover as specified and with the flick of a switch you have a very accurate tacho!. until we found this tool at a trade show and were blown away. Since the demise of mercury manometers, when the nanny state took them away cos mercury is poisonous, we had never seen anything that impressed us. In static mode it measures the vacuum in the carb intakes or throttle bodies (in the case of fuel injection), and allows you to easily balance the carbs / throttle bodies so much more quickly and more accurately than with standard vacuum gauges. VacuumMate Vacuum Diagnosis Tool We would be hard pushed to exaggerate the pros of this tool! The only downside is the price - it's not cheap! We have been using this tool in our workshop and it has paid for itself over and over again!
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